Kusadasai to Pamukkale

Ephesus (near Kusadasai)to Pamukkale- Thurs 31st March 2011

On the bus and off to Pamukkale. Passed through many small villages as we commenced the track east, away from the coast. Signs of rural simplicity with increasing number of small carts drawn by donkeys or ponies. Farmers in the field and an occasional shepherd with a small flock of sheep.

Our Tour Guide, Ahmet (apparently Muslim names in Turkey usually end in T rather than D) is very good. Has a wealth of integrated knowledge but understated. He only provides information when appropriate and is reluctant to ‘big note’ himself or ‘air his knowledge’. He is about to publish his 3rd book, this one on customs and traditions of Turkey and that only came to light quietly. His other books, one in Russian the other in Turkish are about other topics, not just translations of the same thing.

Travelling east of Aydin across vast plains with extensive agriculture. Plastic covered hot houses for strawberries, plus watermelons, orange trees and the ubiquitous olive trees. Ahmet suggested there were 94-98 millions olives trees in Turkey – but he wasn’t sure who counted them. (From Kate: Interesting fact: There is only one type of olive tree. The different colours are due to when they are harvested). We travelled through this sort of farmland for several hours.

At the ‘pit stops’, all are ‘tourist-bus’ friendly with rapid courteous service – even the bus gets a wash. While travelling some interesting customs and traditions came to light.

Education is compulsory in Turkey for 8 years – soon to be 12. All school uniforms are the same in Turkey – an interesting idea. There is a small private education system and some private universities as well as government sponsored ones.

Military service for 15 months is compulsory for all males. Graduates from university have it reduced to 6-12 months.

Turkish coffee is a taste which is acquired and I’ve done it, although Mary and Kate not so. We have all enjoyed Turkish tea, served in small glasses on a saucer. The glass has a sort of hourglass shape.

Some rural marriages still have an arranged element about them. After the first visit the girl makes Turkish coffee in one of three ways. Bitter coffee means NO, medium coffee means MAYBE and sweet coffee says YES. The ultimate decision is left up to the parents however everyone understands the code.

Turkey is generally self-sufficient in agriculture except for tropical fruits. It is the largest producer of figs, apricots, raisons, and pomegranates. It produces 75% of the world market in hazelnuts.

Tourism is very important. 28-30 million visitors per year with 4 million from Germany and 3.2 million from neighbouring, former USSR countries.

Fuel is very expensive. Approximately 4.10 TL/ litre (equals 2.60 AUD) The country has 40% of the world reserves in marble. They have the second richest reserves in gold. Geothermal energy is important in Turkey.

Enough of that! Back to the travels.

The calcium cascades in Pamukkale are impressive. Without overdoing the geology – sufficient to say that hot springs in the area (there is geothermal activity right through the region), laden with dissolved calcium carbonates flow over the rocks and deposit this calcium carbonate (as in stalactites and stalagmites). This has been occurring for thousands of years. Hence the impressive displays. Only certain areas are open to the public since 1997 when control and management improved. The waters are blue in colour and a pleasant warm temperature.


Evidence of Geothermal Activity


First view of Calcium Cascades

Kate and three fellow tourists of ‘younger age’ took to ritual jumping at selected sites. I was going to join them but failed one of the criteria.

A Ritual Jump


Walking in the Cascades.


The colour is a vibrant blue.

The water analysis claims it cures just about anything. It is rich in calcium (dah!) and calcium bicarbonate but not sure how the other components match up.


Adjacent to these cascades were very impressive ruins of the ancient city of Hierapolis – which we hear of in scriptural terms as Phrygia. Paul traversed this region as recorded in Acts in conjunction with visits to Pamphylia and Galatia.

Our Guide, Ahmet, explains.




Hierapolis (Phrygia) is quite extensive with much excavation still to occur. The theatre is very well preserved and impressive.

The Theatre.


Restoration Near Theatre.


Main St, Hierapolis.

These are supposed to be chariot or wheel tracks in the Main Street. Ummm Could be.


A very elaborate façade, considering its function. Must have had some stone masons with time on their hands!

The Latrine.

The three-arch Main Gate was impressive with a ceremonial middle arch – and of course, another ritual jump!


Immediately outside the walls were the Baths – guess they figured if they were under attack, they would not need them anyway!

The Baths

Further outside the city walls was the Necropolis; the cemetery or City of the Dead. It was very extensive and took quite some time to walk through.


The poppies were out in bloom.


Back on the Bus and off to the Hotel. The accommodation in Pamukkale was luxurious – but I should explain this. Probably 4 star by Australian standards, but 5 star in Turkey. The best accommodation in Turkey so far, with a few extras. We had a swim in the warm mineral springs 30+ degrees C. The brown colouration was due to minerals, or so we were told!

Swimming in 30 degrees C Thermal Springs

Then we went to the piranha fish treatment place – Dr Fish – which uses the Thailand flesh eating little sucker fish to clean the dead skin cells from your feet. A bit different at the start – then when you get used to it – it’s still a bit different.

Mary, Kate and fellow tourists.



But very relaxing and we have all noticed more comfortable, relaxed feet today – a charming topic for a blog eh?

Perhaps to finish? A spot of luxury as we have pre-dinner drinks in the lounge.